Introduction viPart One General Information 1Chapter 1 Background Information 3Geography and climate 3, Natural history 3,Mythology 8, History 12, Government and politics18, Economy 18, People 19, Language 20, Religion 21,Education 21, Culture 22Chapter 2 Practical Information 23When to visit 23, Highlights and suggested itineraries 23,Tour operators 25, Red tape 26, Getting there and away27, Health 29, Safety 31, Disabled travellers 32, Travellingwith children 32, Gay and lesbian travellers 32, What totake 32, Money and budgeting 34, Getting around 35,Maps 38, Accommodation 38, Eating and drinking 40,Public holidays 46, Shopping 46, Arts and entertainment47, Museums and archaeological sites 47, Photography47, Media and communications 47, Buying a property 48,Cultural etiquette 49, Travelling positively 49Part TWO T HE GUIDE 51Chapter 3 Corinth and the Argolid 53Corinth 53, Nemea 60, Mycenae 63, Argos 70,Nafplio 72, Epidavros 78, The southeast 82,The southwest 85, Recommended walk 87Chapter 4 L aconia 89Sparta and Mystra 89, Geraki 105, West of Monemvasia106, Monemvasia 107, South of Monemvasia 110, Northof Monemvasia 115, Up the coast: Geraki to Astros 116,Over the top: Mount Parnonas 117, Recommended walk119Chapter 5 the mani 121History 121, Into the Exo Mani 123, Kardamyli 124,Stoupa 129, Into the mountains 133, South from Stoupa135, Itylo Bay 136, Areopoli 137, Deep into the Mani 138,South to Gerolimenas 140, Gerolimenas 141, Down toCape Tenaro 142, Cape Tenaro 143, Up the east coast 143,Gythio and around 145, Recommended walk 147Chapter 6 messinia 151Kalamata 151, Ancient Messene 156, South to Koroni161, Koroni 162, Finikounda 164, Methoni 165, Pylosand Gialova 167, Northern Messinia 176, Recommendedwalk 178Chapter 7 arcadia 181Tripoli 181, Megalopoli 185, Karitena 186, Andritsena188, Th e Lousios Gorge 191, Vytina and around 196,Olympia 197, Th e West Coast 206, Recommendedwalk 206Chapter 8 the north 209Ancient Elis 209, Th e West Coast 210, Patra 210,Th e North Coast 213, Kalavryta 215, Mount Killini 220,Recommended walk 223appendix 1 language 227appendix 2 further Information 231Index 233Index of advertisers 240List of maps:Ancient Corinth 57Ancient Messene 157Arcadia 180Argos 70Corinth and the Argolid 52Epidavros 79Greece 4Kalamata 152Laconia 90Mani, The 122Messinia 150Mycenae 66Mystra 99Nafplio 73North, The 208Olympia 198Patra 211Peloponnesecolour section ii-iiiSparta 92Tripoli 183.