Tolerant, democratic, self-confident and young at heart, Amsterdam is a city that never fails to surprise and delight its visitors. Glide along the canals past 17th-century mansions, gasp at the Old Masters in the museums, go Dutch in the restaurants, buy a diamond or a pair of clogs. This handy guide is crammed with addresses, priceless recommendations and practical hints, whether you're on a weekend break or a fortnight's adventure.