'The thing to do is just begin. The question, of course, is where?' So opens Thom Eagle's hymn to a singular early spring meal. A cookbook without recipes, this is an invitation to journey through the mind of a chef as they work. Stand next to Thom in the kitchen as he muses on the very best way to coax flavour out of an onion (slowly, and with more care than you might expect), or considers the crucial role of salt in the creation of the perfect assembly for early green shoots and leaves. In an era when we are so distracted that we eat almost without realising what we've just put in our mouth, this is food and writing to savour, gently steering the cook back towards simplicity, confidence and, above all, taste.