Contents Introduction viii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3Ancient roads in Macedonia 5Climate 7Flora and fauna 7Environmental efforts 12History 14Government and politics 37Economy 38People 39Language 49Religion 50Education 54Culture 55Chapter 2 Practical Information 61 When to visit 61Highlights 61Suggested itineraries 63Tour operators 64Red tape 67Embassies 68Getting there and away 70Maps and tourist information 73Health 77Security and safety 86Women travellers 89Gay travellers 89Disabled travellers 89Travelling with children 90What to take 91Money 93Budgeting 93Getting around 94Accommodation 97Eating and drinking 99Public holidays and festivals 102Shopping 104Arts and entertainment 105Outdoor pursuits 105Photography 112Media and communications 112Business 114Buying property 115Cultural etiquette 116Interacting with local people 116Travelling positively 118 PART TWO THE GUIDE 121Chapter 3 Skopje 123 History 123Getting there and away 130Getting around 130Tourist information 131Where to stay 134Where to eat 136Entertainment and nightlife 139Shopping 142Other practicalities 143What to see 143Activities 151Chapter 4 Outside Skopje 153 Where to eat 153Horseriding 156Mount Vodno 156Lake Matka and caves 157Katlanovska Banja 161The old stone aqueduct 162Pantelejmon Monastery 164Suto Orizari Roma settlement and market 164Archaeological sites around Skopje 167Tauresium 168Markov Monastir 169Sv Bogorodica Monastery near Kozle 169Chapter 5 Lake Ohrid and Galicica National Park 171Ohrid 171Outside Ohrid 189Struga 191Galicica National Park 196Day trips in the area 196Chapter 6 Pelagonia, Prespa and Pelister 203History of the region 203Bitola 207Pelister National Park and ecotourism 215Lake Prespa 220Prilep 223Outside Prilep 228Krusevo 231Demir Hisar 234Chapter 7 Polog and Mavrovo 235 Tetovo 235Popova Sapka ski resort and mountain range 245Gostivar 247Mavrovo National Park 250Debar 252Outside Debar 257Kicevo 260Chapter 8 The Northeast and Middle Vardar 263Veles 263Stip 269Kocani 273Delcevo 275Berovo 276Kumanovo 277Outside Kumanovo 281Kriva Palanka 283Kratovo 286Outside Kratovo 288Sveti Nikole 290Chapter 9 The Southern Wine Region 293Strumica 293Outside Strumica 303Valandovo 308Wines from the Tikves plains 308Kavadarci 309Negotino 310Stobi 311Demir Kapija - the Iron Gate 312Gevgelija 313Kozuf ski resort and mountain range 315Lake Dojran 316Chapter 10 A Dozen Hikes 321Hiking clubs 322Mountain hut system 322Vodno Cross to Matka Dam 324Marko's Tower to Treskavec Monastery 326Demir Kapija to Iberlija and Koresnica 328Oktisi to Vajtos and Vevcani 330Two Lakes view 332Rostuse and Duf Waterfall 334Jance to Galicnik (Wedding Festival) 334Biljana Waterfalls and Dolna Alilica Cave 336Titov Vrv 338Kriva Sija Waterfall 338Mount Kitka 340Brajcino to Pelister Lakes and Nizepole 341Appendix 1 Language 343 Appendix 2 Glossary of Terms and Names 357 Appendix 3 Guide to Wines of Macedonia 359 Appendix 4 Further Information 361 Index 372.