List of Illustrations 7 Acknowledgements 9 On Editorial Decisions and Copyrights 11 INTRODUCTION 13 The Travails and Occasional Pleasures of Life in Istanbul PART ONE 43 Commentaries CHAPTER ONE 45 Istanbul and Crete in the Mid-1600s: Evliya Çelebi's Discourse on Non-Muslims CHAPTER TWO 65 What Happened in Istanbul's Gardens and Beauty Spots? Evliya Çelebi on Religion, Domination and Entertainment CHAPTER THREE 83 Streets as Contested Spaces: Istanbul against a Parisian Backdrop (1600-1850) CHAPTER FOUR 115 Resat Ekrem Koçu Among the Historians: Academic Credibility vs. the Enjoyment of History PART TWO 139 Food and Water CHAPTER FIVE 141 Before Döner: "Fast Food" in Pre-Tanzimat Istanbul CHAPTER SIX 161 Should It Be Olives or Butter? Consuming Fatty Titbits in the Early Modern Ottoman Empire CHAPTER SEVEN 177 No Business without Water! Operating Khans, Baths and Factories in Nineteenth-Century Istanbul PART THREE 195 Festivities and Calamities CHAPTER EIGHT 197 Fireworks in Seventeenth-century Istanbul CHAPTER NINE 211 Fires in Istanbul: Eighteenth-Century Reflections on the Sultans' Legitimacy PART FOUR 229 The Working World CHAPTER TEN 231 The Parades of Ottoman Guildsmen: Self-assertion and Submission to the Sultan's Command CHAPTER ELEVEN 257 Making and Marketing Rough Woollens: From Balkan Looms to Istanbul Shops CHAPTER TWELVE 279 Did Cosmopolitanism Exist in Eighteenth-century Istanbul? Stories of Christian and Jewish Artisans CHAPTER THIRTEEN 299 Manumission in Seventeenth-century Suburban Istanbul CHAPTER FOURTEEN 323 Captured in Üsküdar during the 1550s: Fugitive Slaves and Their Clothing CHAPTER FIFTEEN 335 Rural Conflicts Swirling around Istanbul's Food: Gegbuze/Gebze (District of Üsküdar) in the Mid-1700s CHAPTER SIXTEEN 371 Istanbul in the Early Modern Period: A City of Migrants Bibliography 399 Index 437.