Introduction One of the triumphs of modern life is our ability to distance ourselves from the simple facts of our own existence. We love our hamburgers, but we've never seen the inside of a slaughterhouse. We're not sure if the asparagus that accompanies our salmon is grown in Ecuador or Oregon. We flush the toilet and don't want to know any more. If we feel bad, we take a pill. We don't even bury our own dead-they are carted away and buried or burned for us. It's easy to forget what a luxury this is-until you visit a place like China. Despite its booming economy in recent years, the insulating walls of modern life have not yet been fully erected there.

In restaurants, the entrees are often alive in a cage in the dining room. Herbs and acupuncture needles inspire more faith than pharmaceutical drugs. Toilets stink. In rural areas, running water is a surprise, hot water a thrill. When you flip the switch on the wall and the light goes on, you know exactly what it costs-all you have to do is take a deep breath and feel the burn of coal smoke in your lungs. To a westerner, nothing is more uncivilized than the sulfury smell of coal. You can't take a whiff without thinking of labor battles and underground mine explosions, of chugging smokestacks and black lung. But coal is everywhere in twenty-first-century China.

It's piled up on sidewalks, pressed into bricks and stacked near the back doors of homes, stockpiled into small mountains in the middle of open fields, and carted around behind bicycles and old wheezing locomotives. Plumes of coal smoke rise from rusty stacks on every urban horizon. There is soot on every windowsill and around the collar of every white shirt. Coal is what's fueling China's economic boom, and nobody makes any pretense that it isn't. And as it did in America one hundred years ago, the power of coal will lift China into a better world. It will make the country richer, more civilized, and more remote from the hard facts of life, just like us. The cost of the rough journey China is undertaking is obvious. More than six thousand workers a year are killed in China's coal mines.

The World Health Organization estimates that in East Asia, a region made up predominantly of China and South Korea, 355,000 people a year die from the effects of urban outdoor air pollution. The first time I visited Jiamusi, a city in China's industrial north, it was so befouled by coal smoke that I could hardly see across the street. All over China, limestone buildings are dissolving in the acidic air. In Beijing, the ancient outdoor statuary at a 700-year-old Taoist temple I visited was encased in Plexiglas to protect it. And it's not just the Chinese who are paying for their coal-fired prosperity. Pollution from China's power plants blows across the Pacific and is inhaled by sunbathers on Malibu beach. Toxic mercury from Chinese coal finds its way into polar bears in the Arctic. Most seriously, the carbon dioxide released by China's mad burning of coal is helping to destabilize the climate of the entire planet.

All this would be much easier to condemn if the West had not done exactly the same thing during its headlong rush to become rich and prosperous. In fact, we're still doing it. Although America is a vastly richer country with many more options available to us, our per capita consumption of coal is three times higher than China's. You can argue that we manage it better-our mines are safer, our power plants are cleaner-but mostly we just hide it better. We hide it so well, in fact, that many Americans think that coal went out with corsets and top hats. Most of us.