Here, say the archaeologists, is where, 10,000 years ago, the human race first settled down, grew crops and built villages and towns. Today Syria's historic cities count among the wonders of the world -- forming a living museum of early civilisation. From the classical ruins of Palmyra to the mighty Krak des Chevaliers, from the citadels and souks of Damascus and Aleppo to the waterwheels of Hama, this guide explores the history, culture and practicalities of one of the safest and friendliest countries you could wish to visit.