Historically known as the symbol of economic and political freedom at the heart of Mahatma Gandhi's struggle for Indian independence, the hand woven and hand spun cloth khadi has since been reinvented as a global luxury textile in high fashion and heritage markets in contemporary India. This is the first book to address India's thriving fashion industry surrounding khadi alongside the legacy of Gandhian thought in the postcolonial era, exploring how the textile has evolved from cloth of the nation to high fashion fabric.Based on extensive ethnographic research, including interviews with designers, consumers and NGO advocates, Jay questions the relationship between the material and the social that continues to frame the production and consumption of khadi. How does khadi's symbolism as a moral cloth change against a backdrop of conspicuous consumption and display? As khadi shifts into the realms of ready-to-wear couture and heritage luxury, what happens to its potential to address issues of inequality and nationhood? Between its historical symbolism and emergence as luxury fashion, khadi materialises broader questions surrounding the role of non-western fashion in modernity, artisanal craft, ethical and sustainable fashion, and the social relationships mediated through the materiality of cloth.Weaving together the complete history of khadi for the first time, Indian Khadi Cloth will be of interest to students of textiles, fashion, anthropology and luxury.