List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Chapter 1: Setting the Stage Decentering Fashion History Fashion Photography Who lived in Ottoman Istanbul Istanbul as a global city Enslavement and the harem What's in, what's not The book's structure Chapter 2: Picturing Fashion and Understanding Dress: The Sources Visual Sources: Painting and book illustration Visual Sources: Photography Written Sources The Garments: Museum Collections of Ottoman women's dress Chapter 3: The Garments: Tailoring, Construction and Transformation Elite women's dress in 18th century Istanbul: Tailoring and construction Elite women's dress in 18th century Istanbul: the textiles and the garments Dress in the first decades of the 19th century Transformations Chapter 4: Acceleration of Change: The dress, the photograph and Ottoman weddings Working with historic photographs: the B indalli example The Bindalli dress and changes over time Bindalli embroidery The white wedding dress Wedding photography Ottoman weddings: Who wore what Chapter 5: The Fashion Economy in Istanbul Hanimefendi : the Ottoman consumer Interaction with European women Ottoman women among themselves Fashion Media New clothes and shopping Chapter 6: The Tastemakers Who's who: Understanding the cast of characters Fehime Sultan The Occasions Palace Wardrobes Chapter 7: The Elusive Fashion Stories of Enslaved Women and Domestic Servants Enslaved women and their clothing The Visual Evidence The texts The Garments Chapter 8 : Dressing for Work Education and Work for Women in late Ottoman Istanbul Looking for the dress of Ottoman women at work Ottoman working women Dressing for the street Afterword: The Afterlife of Ottoman Dress Dress in the first decade of the Turkish Republic The bindalli dress as folk costume and later Fashion tastemakers, the 21st century version The Magnificent Century and 21st century wedding dresses Bibliography Index.