"Today we are creating a solid foundation for a democratic, secular society and a legal state, for a multi-structured and steadily developing market-oriented economy." Islam Karimov, President of Uzbekistan Uzbekistan is a country of contradictions. Its president speaks of reform while in reality, democracy is illusory. Where legality meets torture and Islam meets a secular state, Uzbekistan is torn between its historical roots, Soviet rule, and modern consumerism. As a vital ally in the 'War on Terror', yet retaining a deeply troubling record on human rights, even the West is uncertain about how to approach it. In this vibrant account, respected journalist Robert Rand draws on three years living and travelling in the region to carefully deconstruct the cultural allegiances and tensions that color Uzbek life. From the heritage of the country's beloved hero, Tamerlane, to the clash of cultures in Uzbek pop music, Rand intertwines day-to-day life with overarching political and social issues. Overflowing with lovable personalities and charming anecdotes, this lively book will captivate the historian, the traveller, and anyone who wishes to understand modern life in the ex-Soviet bloc.

"Reveals the reality in contemporary Uzbekistan and is a pleasure to read throughout." Dr Sergei Khrushchev, Senior Fellow at Brown University and son of former Soviet Prime Minister Nikita Khrushchev "Full of insight and interest. The author clearly knows his subject very well." David Morgan, Professor of History at The University of Wisconsin-Madison and author of The Mongols.