LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS vii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ix INTRODUCTION 1 Eric C. Rath and Stephanie Assmann PART 1 Early Modern Japan 1 Honzen Dining: The Poetry of Formal Meals in Late Medieval and Early Modern Japan 19 ERIC C. RATH 2 "How to Eat the Ten Thousand Things": Table Manners in the Edo Period 42 MICHAEL KINSKI 3. "Stones for the Belly": Kaiseki Cuisine for Tea during the Early Edo Period 68 GARY SOKA CADWALLADER AND JOSEPH R. JUSTICE 4 Meat-eating in the Kojimachi District of Edo 92 AKIRA SHIMIZU 5 Wine-drinking Culture in Seventeeth-century Japan: The Role of Dutch Merchants 108 JOJI NOZAWA PART II Modern Japan 6 The History of Domestic Cookbooks in Modern Japan 129 SHOKO HIGASHIYOTSU YANAGI 7 Imperial Cuisines in Taisho Foodways 145 BARAK KUSHNER 8 Beyond HUnger: Grocery Shopping, Cooking, and Eating in 1940s Japan 166 KATARZYNA CWIERTKA AND MIHO YASUHARA 9 Ramen and U.S. Occupation Policy 186 GEORGE SOLT 10 Bento: Boxed Love, Eaten by the Eye 201 TOMOKO ONABE PART III Contemporary Japan 11 Mountain Vegetables and the Politics of Local Flavor in Japan 221 BRIDGET LOVE 12 Reinventing Culinary Heritage in Northern Japan: Slow Food and Traditional Vegetables 243 STEPHANIE ASSMANN 13 Ramen Connoisseurs: Class, Gender, and the Internet 257 SATOMI FUKUTOMI 14 Irretrievably in Love with Japanese Cuisine 275 DAVID E. WELLS CONTRIBUTORS 285 INDEX 289 List of Illustrations 1 A three-tray honezen meal from Ryori kondateshu 22 2 Snipe in (eggplant) jars from Shichi no zen jukyu kon no maki 32 3 A supervisory housewife and a servant from Shiroto ryori nenju sozai no shikata zen 135 4 An old housewife and two servants from Sozai ryori no okeiko 137 5 A young housewife in a kitchen from Katei yoshoku ryoriho 139 6 A housewife and maid discussing kitchen tasks from Renovating Kitchens 151 7 Members of a neighborhood farm group preparing steamed buns 222 8 Local female farmers work part-time at company headquarters 230 9 A female farmers' group from Yuda's Makino district 232 10 The three basic types of Japanese knives 276 11 Cutting a carrot into a plum blossom 277 12 Peeling daikon 278 13 Tempura 283.