"Discover Syria & Lebanon" Smile your thanks when the elderly caretaker of a Damascus house opens the door just for you Test-drive your Arabic as you fly through the Syrian desert in a 1960s Dodge taxi What conflict? Find your peace hiking amid waterfalls, hermitages and monasteries in Lebanon's gorgeous Qadisha Valley Lather up with olive oil soap from Aleppo's famous souq - and learn how to pick one fit for a queen "In This Guide:" Three authors, 140 days of on-the-road research, one international conflict, countless invitations to tea Ask the archaeologist: all your questions on Syria's stunning ruins answered by a specialist Get the local lowdown: special color chapter featuring travel tips from Syrians and Lebanese.