Rex De Guzman's colorful cookbook Kamayan is a tempting initiation into Filipino cuisine. British-born Filipino chef Guzman runs pop-up restaurants and was a finalist on The Great Cookbook Challenge with Jamie Oliver. A three-month stay in the Philippines allowed him to reconnect with his heritage. Compared to other Asian countries' cuisines, he says that the Philippines' is "largely unknown in much of Europe. However, that is all beginning to change." Due to outside influences encountered through trade and colonialism, the Philippines developed "the original fusion food," Guzman contends. A trademark sourness from vinegar and fruits is balanced by sweet and salty flavors. Coconut and rice are ubiquitous elements.
Staples take on different dimensions when used in a savory dish versus a dessert, and the recipes lend themselves to adaptation. Breakfast options include a charred eggplant omelet and garlic fried rice. Sinigang, or poached salmon in sour tamarind and tomato broth, and roasted cauliflower and peanut stew are among the alluring plates. Other sections cover barbecue and street food, nibbles to eat with beer, and the "merienda" snack between lunch and dinner. Two mouthwatering suggestions are plantain spring rolls with brown sugar syrup and "Lola Rosa's mango float," a layered confection of crème p'tissière and mango gel on a Biscoff and graham cracker base. Some preparation times are less than half an hour, but there are also more involved menus for feast days. All instructions are written in a clear fashion. Information is also given about what ingredients to keep in the pantry.
Street scenes are depicted, too, setting the food in context. With bold fonts, geometric color blocks, and crisp photographs, often taken from above, the sunny cookbook Kamayan is an invigorating culinary tour of the Philippines.