Wedged deep in the Himalayas between India and China, Bhutan guards its independence while around it, Sikkim and Tibet have been swallowed by the giants and Nepal is rife with unrest. Bhutan markets itself as the last Shangri-La, but a closer look shows crime, discrimination and religious manipulation. Murray Gunn and his French wife lived with the local people for two years to know this secretive kingdom better - but risked their marriage in the process. This is his travel memoir of discovery and change.